The other Polish team's activity brought some good ascents as well. The Poles, Adam Pieprzycki and Marcin Szczotka climbed at first Oceano trango (6a, 300m) on BC slabs as every other team in the area this season.

Then on the 5^th of September they climbed Karakoram Khush on Garda Peak using probably the same variation the Slovenian women did a couple of days earlier (while making the first free ascents onf the peak). First ascent (in 2004) was done with some A0 pionts. Now the route offers climbing around 6b (300m) with many different variations possible in the upper part of the wall.

After a couple of days the team tried to climb the Trango Nameless; at first via the Eternal Flame and then via the Slovenian Route. Unfortunately, after 3 full days in the wall, they retreated on the 10^th of September, when the weather broke during the night.

On the 14^th of September the team climbed the First Tower of Severence Ridge using the route of the first conquestors. The Poles were actually thinking, they are making the first ascent to the Tower; only a couple of days later, they realized that they made a second ascent of the First Tower of SR.

Severence Ridge was climbed almost to the top of Trango Ri (1600m of hard climbing via the ¾ different Towers along the rodge) by Jonathan Clearwater, Jeremy Frimer and Sammy Johnson in 2005.

The Polish team climbed the route probably with different variations on the first 3-4 pitches. The intention was to make a separate route that can be easily aproached from BC. The difficulties of the route (to the First Tower) are around VIII, A0 and the Poles suggest higher difficulties then the original authors of Severence Ridge. The whole "Polish variation" to the first Tower is around 700 meters. From the top of First Tower Adam and Marcin descended 150 meters down to the south using the really easy ground and then made 7 rappels to the gully below the Tower.

On the 17^th of September the team climbed probably a new route on the slabby peak to the left of Sadu Peak. The route has difficulties around VII and length around 300 meters. The route was called Escape from the Freedom and the Peak (if not climbed before) was baptised the Ibax Peak.

Two days later (19^th of September) Marcin and Adam climbed a Pillar of the Second Tower of Severence Ridge (starting from the right side of Severence Ridge). The team didn't reach the summit of it, being forced to retreat around 50-80 meters below the highest point (the climbing there would had probably required hard aid climbing). The unfinnished route was named Elusive Summits (VII+, A0, 650 meters).

Napisał Kuba Radziejowski

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